We’ve been here in Bangkok city, now running into our sixteen month, and it’s familiar and homely today. I’m conversant in Thai, which helps hugely in getting by. Yet there was a time when every Soi (street) and Thanon (main road) felt strange and unfamiliar. My eyes wore a misty and heavy look, and the heart, overflowing with a sentiment of having given up something wonderful in exchange for life in foreign terrain that could never be home.
March 2019, all that met my vision, wore a strangeness and felt alien; the smells, the canals, the houses and the tiny streets along blocks, that were oh-so-crowded with traffic and people, at almost any hour of the day. Street vendors lined most pavements heavily, laying claim to spaces that the pedestrian handed over willingly, in exchange for an afternoon meal. The long-stay apartment motel we had been put up at, was comfortable but stiflingly hotellike. An extended stay at a motel simply doesn’t work for me, I observed. I was lonely and homesick. I yearned for the familiarity of my homeland, along with the friends I had left back ‘home’.
Forward to sixteen months later : August 2020
I’m at home, in a new apartment, having moved here before the Pandemic hit us this March 2020. From an oversized apartment along Sukhumvit’s Soi 20, we chose a smaller and more compact dwelling closer to the man, my husband’s office. It’s all good.
This street wears an allure that spells – ‘I’m the one with the best eateries and condominiums, and go all the way up to Lumpini Park, and behold a wide pavement, on a one-way street which means less traffic too!’ It’s all good.
The all-pervading smells are all too familiar, heightening around 12 noon, on up till 2.30 pm, gradually dying down in a trail of aromas that still hang in the air long afterward, and I’m immune to them now. Sawadee Khaa resound everywhere; how I love its cadence, a greeting whose sweetness melts . Attending a Thai language school early on certainly perked up matters, and helped me find global friends who were keen to make Bangkok their home, like I did too. We connected.
I know which mall to go to for food and wine, which one for cheap shoes, bags and beachwear; which one to hang out in to hide in, on a hot day, when I’ve already clocked five thousand steps in humid and depleting weather. It’s all good.
What happens when you move to a new land? What parts of you get called upon to quickly adjust to a level of comfort- so that the pain of departure and longing recede to a place of forgetting?
There’s no quick remedy for ‘Heimweh’, a beautiful German expression which loosely translates to ‘Homepain’ and otherwise what in English is homesickness. Recreating a home in a new country- it’s no mean task.
The few tricks that did it for me without much ado:
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Walking around aimlessly :
on Soi Sukhumvit (the main downtown area which stretches beyond hundreds of streets) was an activity undertaken to gain quick familiarity with my surroundings. I shed kilos, as I shed my aloneness. The gaiety of Bangkok streets is legendary.
I lose myself in the physical being of the new city- permit it to wrap and embrace me via its meandering alleyways. This lends me time to find myself again, in a more familiar posture. I watch people- as I watch my step. Shapes out of a nothingness at first, begin to form, as I gain access to a city’s innards. The transformation is subtle; it’s a process. I arm myself with patience, a bag with a bottle of water, dark glasses and an open heart.
I always returned to our apartment with a goodie, from a street vendor- a consumable, or a local artisan’s handiwork.
2. Eating local foods from street vendors :
I was circumspect, but found all my classmates happily munching on locally- brewed stews, fried sausages, dry fruits, fresh fruits without a moment’s thought. Everything was fresh and delicious I discovered. I thrived on these quick grabs.
3. Spending moments in local shops and visiting the library:
An exhilarating exercise and instant connections happened with the local populace. I was in a hurry to feel at home, and all of these worked wonders on my psyche.
4. Walking in the parks (Lumpini, Benchakiti & Benchasiri) :
Is a great way of uniting your spirit with the skies above and the lush greenery of Bangkok. People are very health-conscious and old and young alike take to the parks in the evenings. Hanging around a park is a fabulous way of stretching your mind’s corridors, as well as your body’s stiffening postures. It remains a favorite activity of mine.
5. Playing the Tourist :
visiting well-known monuments wasn’t us. We had already visited Bangkok many years ago and been there, done that. I wanted to drive around and look at those gulleys, and buildings that were remnants of Thailand’s past. Bangkok is a tourist’s delight, but my senses wanted to touch and grab the essence of the city- its heart. We drove around- and absorbed. It’s part of the process of homing in.
‘Home’ wherever one is, is a mental framework, which needs to be built with patience and care. I’ve come home, and when I’m allowed to travel, I shall still go Home in India.
©kamalininatesanAug2020
Beautifully written – I love how you embraced the joys of Bangkok, your open heart and willingness to stretch your mind’s corridors shine through in everything you do!
Thanks Jenny, what a wonderful comment, I’m touched. I’m glad it resonated too, since you’ve also made this your home, and appear to be as comfortable in this part of the world.
Wow, I enjoyed reading your article about Bangkok. It’s either you love it or hate it. We ended up loving it and it’s been nearly twenty years since we moved here. Enjoy your time in Bangkok and keep traveling xx
Thanks for reading the Bangkok piece, and am delighted that you liked it. I wonder how long we will live here, but for as long as we do, I’m sure it’ll just get better and better. Much love
Kop kun (is that the right word for thanks in Thai?) Reena, for this wonderful read. I think to make yourself at home wherever you are is a not everyone’s cuppa tea. But, it definitely seems to be yours!
Hehe, yes, I do think I move with a clear intention of making my home wherever I must make it. It’s for my own sake that I try and acclimatise myself with whatever’s on offer. It’s usually palatable stuff, so can’t complain. Thanks for reading this Seema, and yes, KHop Khun Khaa, is the expression for thank you! You have to add Khaa, otherwise it ain’t polite enough!
It’s so resonated with me Kam
I did exactly the same When in London on a two year stint
However, I did not stop missing home and India
And I was not so generous as you in adopting this new city as my home
Ahah! Glad it resonated Sonia. It’s never easy adapting and adopting. Honestly, up until I feel at home, there is a sense of unease, therefore I push my boundaries. Thanks for reading dear.
I finally sat down to read your newsletter. Beautifully expressed how you adjusted to this new home and started liking it. Enjoy your stint there Kamalini. Making the best of what we have makes the transition smoother. I loved your phrase ” stretching the corridors of the mind”! Looking forward to your next Newsletter.
Thanks Surekha. I’m glad this particular essay has appealed to your sensibilities. I hope you’ve enjoyed the other pieces as well. I’m excited about this new venture of taking out a monthly newsletter which allows me to express ideas bursting the seams of my head and heart all at once. So happy to read your feedback.
I totally resonate with you Kamalini. Having moved 14 times in the last 26 years, I feel like I can make a home anywhere in the world! Wherever we have moved, I have always enjoyed exploring the city and it’s culture and made new friends who have stayed friends through the years. I often get asked if I felt home sick. Strangely, I have not. Infact I am grateful for the experience. And The best part is that it has given the kids a deep sense of appreciation for different peoples and cultures.
How wonderful to know someone like me, who gets it. Yes, I’ve stopped missing ‘home’ elsewhere: it’s here and now. Much like it has enriched your kids’ lives has it taught our kids too, the richness of the world, and appreciation of differing cultures, and that we are all, essentially, humans who choose to live life differently. Thanks for your comments and appreciation Reva. Have a good day!