A short getaway to the twin provinces of Rayong and Chanthaburi in Eastern Thailand
The province of Rayong lies undisturbed, embraced lovingly by the sea, along pristine beaches. Strewn generously with waterfalls and green marshlands too, it twins with Ban Phe, a fisherman’s village area, in the district whose pier is the one where you take a ferry and head for the island of Koh Samet. This little island is both an idyllic holiday beach resort for those desirous of a slow-paced holiday, and a National Park (Khao Laem Ya National Park).
Rayong holds its own for sure we discovered.
Being a mere two-hour forty-five-minute drive to big city Bangkok, it is an ideal seaside resort. Our group of seven harboured a wish to visit less-frequented areas around the small beach town, besides being able to put our feet up and spend quality time together. All chatty and eager, we found ourselves outside our hotel pretty soon, dismounting and being welcomed to the seashore; a refreshing start!
The Novotel
Our itinerary was designed to include another neighbouring province- Chanthaburi, an hour and half ahead from our hotel. Its quaint streets, riverside quays (River Mae Nam Chantaburi); and its famous Cathedral of the Immaculate Conception, in Gothic style, completed in 1909, being primary attractions. It’s also known for its gemstone market, especially rubies and sapphires. Which lady wouldn’t want to visit such a township! Armed with a zealous holiday mood, we were excited to forge ahead.
Chanthaburi is one of the seventy-six provinces of Eastern Thailand along the Gulf of Thailand.
Needless to say, the trip far exceeded our expectations. Not only did we end up bonding, and relaxing by the pool every afternoon, we roamed endless waterways lined with Lilies and Lotus’, and glimpsed bird life and phantom trees. Our spirits soared as the quiet of the countryside lulled our senses.
Three days in this gorgeous setting by the sea, in Novotel Rayong, and we certainly knew we’d wish to return to feel and see some more, perhaps with family and other visiting friends.
Activities
- We were spoilt for choice: two pools and a beach as we indulged in watery comforts every afternoon.
- Local food: fresh and aromatic Thai fare was on the agenda and we all partook of the specialties of the area. Not having sampled it earlier, I found one particular dish perfect: a seafood curry served in a young coconut. I salivate as I describe it: Thai Steamed Curry Seafood in Young Coconut or “Hor Mok Talay Ma-Praow On” in Thai. Sauteed fresh Salmon with herbs – Phla pla Samon, was another delicious dish I hadn’t tasted before. We indulged our taste buds, and our appetites were whetted by glasses of fine white wine and other chilled beverages as dusk delighted us with its glorious ribbons of dazzle in a blaze of dancing colors. Awestruck, we photographed in a frenzy and sipped on, as our evenings turned into extended dreamy scales of friendship and cheer.
- We visited the Mangroves in Rayong, by Ruksame bridge and what a breathtaking visit it turned out to be: wide waterways, birdlife and of course, trees floating, as if suspended in water. It was an incredible stroll and while we wished to stay quiet and observe, we couldn’t get enough of gasping and gushing on at the pristine nature of the scenes that met our eyes.
Drawn to the magic that prevailed, we were united in our sense of wonderment. Grateful to be able to view these incredible vistas, free of touristy infestation, we strolled on, stopping to gaze.
- The visit to Chanthaburi was just as spectacular as it was distinct from the previous day’s outing:
The Cathedral of the Immaculate Conception was magnificent, just as it had been touted to be, but much to our disappointment the doors were shut to tourists. We hung around its exquisiteness and attempted to repeatedly capture its beauty in our mobile phones from various angles.
Later we walked along the quaint streets that are lined with captivating artwork; murals that surprised us in their beauteous reflections of daily life and other areas of human existence. It was a warm day.
Together and apart, in halting steps, every now and then we stood and stared.
Once we had walked on the footbridge across the Cathedral, we scoured the famous gemstone area, and were distressed to find that very few jewellers were out selling their stone-studded precious silverware. Needless to say, we peeked at the quality on display and were pleased to observe precious and fine work.
Many cafes had to shut their doors because of the pandemic, which was hurtful to observe. We kept our eyes on all those doors that had pulled down their shutters and said a quiet prayer for business to resume.
But the human spirit endures and shopkeepers selling Thai savouries and sweets endeared themselves to us with their sweet demeanour.
We lunched at a riverside homely restaurant which did not disappoint.
Lotus, Lilies and Marshlands
A visit to the Rayong Botanical Garden was the highlight of our trip on our last morning. It is open from 8.30 am to 4.30 pm. We were there by 10 am.
The exceptional natural setting of this garden is said to contain vast swamps covering 3,800 sq. meters. This area can be easily explored by boat, or kayak. Its birdlife, and the surrounding hilly forests seem virgin. The other activity one can undertake is hiring a bike and cycling around. We were totally taken by the boat ride that gently rocked us, along the waterways and the marshland. We got off at a point to walk on the soggy peat and imagined being wild folk, at ease in such surrounding natural habitat. We jumped right back in to continue toward the phantom trees.
The ‘phantom trees’, which we shortly arrived at via narrow water paths, are naturally meandering as it were. We observed the shapes of these age-old trees, which were either bent with age, or have grown one way or another to catch natural light. We sat and stared for a while our boatman walked into the surrounding and shallow waters. Some of us followed suit.
A long stretch of the water on our return path, was covered in thousands of Lotus’ and Lilies, which left us dumbstruck. This is perhaps what heaven looks like! Our spirits were hushed, as the boat glided along these lavender and purple beauties.
Having been here, nothing more would match this outing, so we headed back, carrying this experience in our hearts and minds.
The evening we went for a special gourmet dinner at Barong Resort, Ban Phe, a half hour’s drive from our Novotel. It was excellent, and the ambience glowed, much like the beautiful food we were offered.
The trip ended in great spirits, as our last morning afforded a leisurely breakfast, followed by a swim and a slow checkout. We would love for everyone to visit these provinces and be touched as we were by all that met our eyes, and stirred our spirits.
We were seven girls who decided to forge ahead and allow adventure to guide us. It did.
©kamalininatesan26thNov2021
such descriptive writings about lesser known places of a country need to be uploaded in Thai Ministry of Tourism websites…
The readers are sure to make plans to visit such spots …
Congratulations on your insightful writing….
The trip comes across as colorful as you visit cultures and customs across countries.
I love the way you travelogue.
Such colourful bright and inviting pictures of the trip.
The cathedral looks magnificent.
Would love to visit someday
Such a lovely journey you took us on – would love to visit someday. Loved the lotus lilies especially!